Wine of the Month: December 2010

2008 Lemberger **

Weingut Kusterer

€ 9,50

This red is one of the great German wine underdogs. First, it comes from Württemberg, a region which still suffers from a lousy image, mainly because so few people outside of it have tasted the best new style wines. On top of that it’s made from the underrated Lemberger grape. If it said “Product of Austria” and Lemberger’s Austrian synonym – Blaufränkisch –appeared on the label then it would be in hot demand. Austrian Blaufränkisch is definitely 21^st Century Red Wine Cool. The fact that it doesn’t helps to make Hans and Monika Kusterer’s 2008 Lemberger ** such stunning value for the money. The elderberry, black pepper and sous bois bouquet is followed by a near-perfect balance of generous dry tannins, ripeness and herbal freshness. The couple’s four top reds from the 2007 vintage – two fine Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), a super-rich Pomerol-like Merlot, and the elegantly dry „Mélac“, a Zweigelt-Merlot Cuvée – are even better, just not quite such amazing value.