The last stop on my crazy Riesling World Tour is Oregon (OR), and although my strength is now fading fast after being on the road since January 7th these were exciting days. My visit started with the OR Technical Pre-Bottling 2014 Riesling Tasting at Penner-Ash winery that Lynn Penner-Ash so generously hosted. Thanks to the entire group of 30 plus winemakers who attended for accepting my presence at this internal tasting, because it not only enabled me to get an overview of what’s happening here (things are moving fast and in very positive directions), but also to gain some familiarity with how OR Riesling winemakers tick. I predict that the 2014 vintage will enable them to make a real breakthrough in recognition for the subtly aromatic and racy Rieslings of OR.
Finally, I got to visit James Frey at his Trisaetum winery in the Ribbon Ridge AVA and was able to taste these wines intensively. His 2013 Pinots and 2014 Rieslings (nearly all heading for release during the next few months) will surely put this winery on the map as one of the leading producers of both these grapes in OR. The single vineyard and Estates Reserve wines of both grapes have a staggering freshness and a wonderfully expressive fruit character. The Rieslings have a hint of youthful funk, but this is the kind of funk that is a sign for wines that can go the long haul. I can’t wait to taste them after they’ve been bottled and had a little time to settle down. As impressive as the 2013 Rieslings were I feel confident that the new wines are even better.
At Brooks Winery Chris Williams’ 2014 Rieslings (he’s pictured surrounded by them) are all in a truly embryonic state and it’s not possible to pass judgement on them as it is for wines that have finished fermentation and have received their first modest dose of sulphur to stabilize them. However, my gut tells me that they are big, ripe, spicy and have more than enough acidity to enable them to age for at least a decade. The 2003 Willamette Valley Riesling (the regular quality) from Brooks conclusively proved the wines aging potential when I was here last summer.
Brooks’ new winery has been open for several months now and has already been a big hit, not only for winemaker Chris Williams who finally has the space he needs to work without banging his elbows at every turn, but no less importantly for visitors and customers. Rather than present a series of shots of the new tasting room that don’t do its style and comfort justice (due to my limited photographic abilities) here’s a picture of the tasting room team of Claire Jarreau (left) and Sarah Mooney. Their degree of knowledge and competence also outclasses most winery tasting rooms by a street!
Brooks was a good place to stay for the last couple of nights. When a trip is this far advanced and a schedule gets this hectic, then you need peace and quiet to rest and reenergize, which the farmhouse here provided. I write this at the dining table just before packing for the drive to Portland where I will spend my last night on the road. Thanks to everyone who was brave enough to attend the screening of my movie WATCH YOUR BACK – The Riesling Movie (Part 1) at 3rd Street Pizza in McMinnville yesterday evening, also for your patience with all the problems! The mercy of the Great God of Wine and DHL was extended to us, and somebody from 3rd Street Pizza I wasn’t introduced to got the projection functioning. You saved us!
I find it amusing that the “last stop” on the riesling world tour is actually the environment that is best suited to growing quality riesling – maritime influence, degree days, diurnal impact, soil type and the list goes on.
Was this an example of saving the best for last?
Just remember that Old World vineyards were planted based upon ease of access to early public markets (consumers) – New World vineyards are strategically and methodically determined based upon what’s really the best location for the varietal.