Author Archives: Stuart

Ontario Riesling Diary: Day 3 – Let me be Franc with You

Posted on May 13, 2015 by Stuart

As regular visitors are aware, this blog is devoted primarily to the wines of the Riesling grape, just like my book BEST WHITE WINE ON EARTH (pub. Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2014), but I occasionally throw a sidelong glance in … Continue reading →

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Ontario Riesling Diary: Day 2 – Canadian Inspiration (with Thanks to Steve Driscoll & Ian Brown)

Posted on May 12, 2015 by Stuart

Every time I arrive here I have the same feeling of pleasant disorientation, because Toronto is so obviously one of the great cities of the North American continent, yet this is also most definitely not America What makes it different … Continue reading →

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New York Riesling Diary: Day 2 – Where the Next Story is to be Found (Welcome to the Corner of West 16th and 6th Ave)

Posted on May 9, 2015 by Stuart

I often ask myself where the next story is to be found, particularly when I’ve been in one place for a long time and familiarity has made me contemptuous of my surroundings, so that I have ceased to take them … Continue reading →

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Berlin Riesling Diary: Day 8 – Very Long-Term Planning

Posted on May 5, 2015 by Stuart

Most of my work is horribly short-term stuff. I taste a wine/various wines in order to write about it/them here or in my column in the Sunday edition of the FRANKFURTER ALLGEMEINE ZEITUNG (German language) on the same day, or … Continue reading →

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Berlin Riesling Diary: Day 6 – $196,000 for a Bottle of Smith-Madrone Riesling from California

Posted on May 3, 2015 by Stuart

Pictured above are Stuart (left) and Charles Smith (right) of the Smith-Madrone winery on Spring Mountain in Napa Valley, California. They’ve got good reason to look happy, because a bottle of their dry 1997 Riesling just sold at auction for … Continue reading →

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Berlin Riesling Diary: Day 4 – Can You See the Real Me?

Posted on May 1, 2015 by Stuart

Can you see the real me? Can you?  I first heard The Who’s Quadrophenia album in November 1976 just over three years after it was released, and that line from the song The Real Me instantly etched itself into my … Continue reading →

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On the Riesling Road: Day 3 – 2014 in Germany is Up in the Heavens & Down to Zero

Posted on April 27, 2015 by Stuart

The Mainzer Weinbörse, the annual major presentation of the new vintage by the German VDP producers association is just about to end after two grueling days. They weren’t grueling only because of the sheer number of wines on show (more … Continue reading →

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Erich Machherndl und die ganz andere Wachau (Österreich) von Frank Ebbinghaus

Posted on April 24, 2015 by Stuart

Wer Erich Machherndl reden hört, schaut ihm beim Denken zu. Man spürt, wie Energieströme in Lichtgeschwindigkeit durch die Neuronen und Synapsen seines Gehirns rasen, um als Schallwellen mehr ausgestoßen als sorgsam artikuliert zu werden. Die salvenartige Suada wird in dem … Continue reading →

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Berlin Riesling Diary: Day 20 – Billy Wagner’s Restaurant Nobelhart & Schmutzig is Some-thing/where Else (Part 2)

Posted on April 19, 2015 by Stuart

The photograph above is a Portrait of the Gastronomic Artist as a Young Man, which is to say the previous incarnation of Billy Wagner just before he started seriously planing what became his new restaurant Nobelhart & Schmutzig (N&S) on … Continue reading →

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Berlin Riesling Diary: Day 19 – Billy Wagner’s Restaurant Nobelhart & Schmutzig is Some-thing/where Else (Part 1)

Posted on April 18, 2015 by Stuart

I don’t normally do restaurant reviews, but occasionally my visits to restaurants were so exciting that I ended up writing some kind of “review”. This is such a case thanks to restaurateur Billy Wagner (left), dishwasher Samuel Teye-Osom (centre), chef Micha Schäfer … Continue reading →

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